« チョコレートは発酵食品!微生物と太陽と一緒につくりました | Main | チョコ工場での改善その1 »

2011.02.19

お古で作ったチョコレート工場

サリナス村のチョコレート
Valentine Week 4日目は、「懐かしい未来のチョコレート工場」での、人と機械のつながり直しについて。サリナス村のチョコレート工場は、まず、お古の機械をもらってくることからはじまりました。

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Ojach

30年前、乳幼児の死亡率が高く、出稼ぎが必須で、過疎だった悲しい村に、イタリアから来た神父さんが息を吹き込みました。村びとたちに無償で牛を提供し、ミルクを使ってチーズを生産、チーズが国内に上手に流通できたことで手にした資金を利用して、次々に「近隣の村の有機農産物を加工する」小さな工房を建ててゆきました。このチョコレート工場も、そのひとつ。

*『エクアドルを知るための60章』明石書店のサリナス村の章(執筆:藤岡亜美)参照

村のはずれの斜面、6年前、私が初めていったときは、窓枠のない、半分バラックみたいな工房でした。いつも行くと、どこかしら、修理中でした。屋根に穴があいて工事の人が落ちてきたときもあります。(綺麗になった今でもちょっと屋根が傾いていますが、入り口のドアーは板チョコでとってもかわいい。)

Salinaschocolaterias

そこに、スイスやイタリアにおいてチョコレートの生産がベルトコンベアー化されていくなかで、要らなくなった機材が、一つ、またひとつと運びこまれてきました。最初は、機械のまわしかたを間違えて、天井にチョコレートの飛び散ったシミがあったことも。ボランティアの短期の指導や、毎日の試行錯誤によって、機械を自分たちのものにしてゆきました。

カカオの焙煎、粉砕、ペーストへの加工、他の材料との撹拌、型入れまで、一つひとつの工程で活躍している機械には、機械が道具だった頃の懐かしさが漂います。先進国の最新の工場設備と違うのは、人の手と機械のバランスがいい具合にチョコレートづくりの工程に配置されていること。そして、この機械たちの佇まいは、はっとするほど美しい。言葉で上手く説明にするのに困るけれど「なんだか、"機械がちゃんと道具だった頃"を思い出させるような機械」だよね、と出張帰りのスタッフと話してました。

道具と機械のあいだ。その決定的な違いはまだ分からないけど、どちらかというと、道具に近い方がそこに流れる時間が豊かであり、「美味しそう」なもの「素敵そうなもの」が作れそうだ、という直感がある。そして、道具と共にそこに居る、"ひと"の手や顔が、くっきり見える気がする。

Choco

最後の一包みをするテーブルには、常に4、5人のスタッフが囲みます。チョコの包みをあけて食べるとき、それが誰かの手で包まれたものだったなんて、想像しなかったでしょう。包むみんなは食べる人の美味しい顔、想像してるかしら。人の手で作られたほうが、美味しい、というのは世界中の誰もが知っていること。

今では窓枠も入り、常時18人の正社員、日本への出荷時には延べ50人の非常勤スタッフがはたらいています。

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« チョコレートは発酵食品!微生物と太陽と一緒につくりました | Main | チョコ工場での改善その1 »

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